I am sitting here watching “The Eddie” streaming live from Waimea Bay, North Shore Hawaii! For those of you who don’t know what it is, it’s a contest held in Memory of Eddie Aikau. He is a legend and is one of the biggest names in surfing. He saved many lives and was known as a big wave surfer. A lot of people watching the contest probably think that these people are insane! The waves are huge! People knowingly take the risk of injury or death…for what?  These people LOVE the sport, and this is what they do, it’s a lifestyle.

Have you ever surfed before? If so, did it give you a rush?! Paddling for a wave, you stand up, and the next thing you know….you are dropping in down the face of a 40 ft wave!!!
Now imagine you are at the Worlds(Gi or No GI), warming up in the bull pen, anxiously waiting for your name to be called. That alone gives me a rush, sometimes nervousness. You have trained all year, put blood, sweat and tears into this very moment. Some of you may have even put your life on the line, giving up everything to train, and be the best. Living paycheck to paycheck.  Finally, the time is here, you walk up to the scale, take your slippers off, weigh in and you are immediately being walked to the mat. Even if you have never surfed…it’s the same feeling…the same rush.

Palms are sweaty, you shake hands, and get your first match underway. Now you continue on to win all your matches and then you end up in the finals! There is only one winner. It’s just you, the ref, and your opponent. He asks if you are ready, you shake hands, then its time for battle! After a grueling fight, you catch your opponent in a triangle…all part of your game plan. This is what you have been practicing, and drilling for hours, days, weeks, months. You land that big wave….you make the 40 foot drop and ride it til the end.

Have you ever felt that rush?  What gave it to you?  Racing?  Skateboarding?  MMA? Brazilian Jiu Jitsu?

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